As a professional makeup artist, one of the most exciting parts of my work is customising products. There’s something magical about taking existing foundations, pigments, and creams and turning them into colours that feel uniquely made for your client, or for your creative vision.
But there’s more to it than just mixing shades: you need to understand compatibility in formula and have a solid understanding of makeup colour theory. I admit, I am a mixer in nature,
Why formula matters when customising makeup shades
Not every product can be mixed together. Creams with different oils, powders with different binders, or pigments with incompatible bases can separate, crack, or change in texture. When I customise, I always make sure the products are compatible in formula, so that the result stays smooth, blendable, and wearable. Yes, it is fine to use products from different brands, but it is also important to understand what makes them compatible.
Same base formulas — water with water, oil with oil, wax with wax. Products from different brands can work together when the base matches.
Water-based mixed with silicone or oil-based. These can separate, crack, or pill on the skin — no matter how good the colours look together.
Makeup artists are not called artists by accident. There is an immense amount of science and special knowledge behind any professional makeup artist.
When I am in class teaching my students I always tell them to know their products well. You will not only save a lot of money by knowing how to customise and adjust shades, that could be with foundation, blush eyeshadows etc, but you will also become a specialist in your field. Makeup artists are not called artists by accident. There is an immense amount of science and special knowledge behind any professional makeup artist.
Putting in simple terms, if you think about water and oil they do not mix. Same thing happened with makeup products where some formulas are water based, while others are silicone, oil or wax based. A great staple I have in my kit it the SupraColor Rainbow wheel, the formula has never split on me, and it have all the colours you need to create absolutely anything you need, from foundation shades, highlight, contour, blush, lipstick and eyeshadows.
Understanding Makeup Colour Theory before you start mixing
Before I even touch my palette, I think about undertones, colour intensity, and the way light interacts with the skin. Mixing isn’t just about creating a “pretty shade”; it’s about achieving something that looks alive and flattering under studio lights, cameras, or natural daylight.
A classic example I use is the Kryolan 6 Colour Wheel Sparkle. This line of cream pigments is highly pigmented, easily blendable, and works beautifully across all sorts of base colours. Mixing a couple of shades from the Cream Wheel Sparkle such as copper, bronze and pearl with the D32 by Dermacolor you get the most natural and stunning glowy blush. The D32 colour is famously versatile because it mimics the natural tone of the gums, meaning it works across all skin tones without looking artificial.
How Professional Makeup Artists mix blush, lipstick, and eyeshadow
Once you understand formula and colour, the creative possibilities are endless. You can start with one base product and layer or mix it to create something entirely new.
Using the Kryolan 6 Colour Rainbow Wheel (which contains red, yellow, blue, green, black, and white), I often start with the red and yellow to create a natural peachy blush. Need it softer? Add a touch of white. Want it deeper? A hint of black or even green can neutralise it without making it muddy.
Custom makeup mixing tips for Professional Makeup Artists
Let’s say I want to create a soft, wearable blush for a client with warm undertones:
- Start with red from the Kryolan rainbow wheel as your base.
- Add a touch of yellow to warm the colour and make it flattering on warm-toned skin.
- Mix in a tiny bit of green to neutralise any overly bright intensity without dulling the shade.
- If needed, add a hint of white to soften it for a more natural, sun-kissed finish.
THE RESULT
A blush that’s entirely customised for that client, and which complements their skin tone perfectly.
If colour mixing ever feels confusing, I recommend starting with the fundamentals of colour theory for makeup artists, because everything we customise comes back to that knowledge.
Final thoughts on Makeup Colour Theory for Professional Artists
Customising makeup is all about control, creativity, and a deep understanding of colour. It’s not just about mixing; it’s about knowing why each ingredient works together, how colours interact on skin, and how to adapt products for the final look you want—whether that’s natural, editorial, or bridal perfection.
Understanding colour on skin is one thing, but learning to experiment freely on paper through facecharts for makeup artists completely changed the way I approach custom colour mixing.
When you start experimenting with mixing, you’ll find that even a small palette, like the Kryolan Rainbow Wheel, can become a world of endless possibilities. The more you practice, the more confident you’ll become in creating shades that truly feel like they were made just for you—or for your client.
If you’re still building confidence with colour, I’ve created a free guide that walks you through the basics of colour theory for makeup artists — it’s the exact foundation I wish I had when I started.
READY TO GO DEEPER?
Master colour theory for makeup artists
The exact foundation I wish I had when I started — from the colour wheel to mixing custom shades with confidence.
Not ready yet? Start with the free guide
The basics of colour theory for makeup artists — the exact foundation I wish I had when I started.
